If the fuses aren't blown, there could be some corrosion in the trailer connector on the truck preventing the signal from getting through. If you can see green or white corrosion on the pins, there's a chance the corrosion has spread to the interior of the connector and damaging it. Try testing the wires feeding the connector itself to ensure that power is reaching the connector when the turn signals are activated, which would confirm or rule out the connector as being the problem. If power... view full answer...
Even though your truck has an electric over hydraulic setting we have found that most factory controllers just don't like to work consistently with EOH systems. The problem you are describing sounds exactly like that issue.
The best solution I can provide for you would be to go with an aftermarket brake controller like the P2 part # 90885 that works great with EOH systems. To install this controller you will need to use the install harness part # 3034-P. An error code may appear on your... view full answer...
Per the instruction manual for the Hopkins Agility Trailer Brake Controller part # HM47294, the error code "SC" indicates that you have a short circuit. The shorted circuit could be on either the blue brake output wire, the red stop light switch wire, or the black 12 volt power wire.
If the error only occurs while the trailer is connected then you know the issue is most likely on the trailer but if the error occurs while the trailer is not connected then you know the issue is most likely... view full answer...
I'm assuming you're talking about the brass tee on the back in the picture below with one end open and the other two running into the switch and gauge. Did you use soapy water to identify the exact location of the leak? I only say that since there are a lot of connections going on here. Also, make sure you're using a hose cutter like # AL10530 when replacing any sections to keep your cuts perfectly square or you could end up with leaks in other locations as well.
Since you got the # F49ZR... view full answer...
Your Curt Pop-In Ball for Factory Ford and Ram Underbed Gooseneck Hitches - 2-5/16" Diameter Ball # C60601 lifts the pin when that lever is lifted. Because that lever is broken off you will need to lift that pin and turn it 90 degrees to release the ball bearings that hold the hitch ball in the unit frame.
You may want to use some penetrating oil below where you need to grip the pin just to allow a more free movement of the pin and the ball bearings. view full answer...
I looked up your owners manual in a web search and was able to find that fuse 33 in the fuse box in the passenger side of your cab is one place to check. Relay 44 and relay 56 in the engine bay power distribution box also impact that 12v Power at your trailer connector.
With relays testing isn't easy so simply replacing them with one you know works is the best option. Then you can use a circuit tester like # PTW2993 to test your 7-way at the 1 o'clock position for power. view full answer...
Since the trailer lights seem to work fine on a different truck, it's probably a safe assumption to isolate the issue to the new truck. It sounds like there is an issue with the turn/brake light circuit on your 7 pin connector similar to the # HM47295. I recommend starting by testing that circuit on the 7 way connector of the truck using a circuit tester like the # PTW2993. Odds are that you're not going to get any power on the circuit when you press the brake or engage the turn signals,... view full answer...
I checked with Roadmaster and for your 2005 Forest River Sunseeker built on a E-450 Class C chassis you'd want the part # RM-1139-115 for the front bar and part # RM-1139-147 for the rear bar. view full answer...
Your Curt Discovery Trailer Brake Controller C51120 should have installed on your Ford Forest River 3050S with the Wiring Adapter # C51432 so the wiring shouldn't be incorrect, and the Anti Theft system shouldn't be connected to a brake controller circuit at all.
The only things I can think of is if your controller was hardwired in and that was done incorrectly, or if there was other wiring that was damaged and it ended up blowing a couple of fuses.
I don't have a wiring diagram for your... view full answer...
I recommend beginning by testing your 7-Pin connector on your truck. You will want to use a circuit tester, like # PTW2993, to ensure the plug has all of the functions working properly. I have attached a help article on trailer wiring that will help you determine the functions of each pin on the connector.
If you are not getting signal on all of the pins, you will want to check the fuses for those wires. If a fuse is bad, it will need to be replaced for the function to work properly at... view full answer...
The trailer brakes should be applied when the vehicle is shifted into reverse because most vehicles require the brake pedal to be pressed to be able to shift into reverse. The Pilot Brake Controller, part # 80550 is designed for electric brakes only.
You will need a circuit tester like part # PTW2993 and check the wiring for your brake controller. Check the black wire at the back of the controller to make sure you are receiving power.
Then check the red wire to make sure you are only... view full answer...
You'll need to install a Roadmaster Brake Light Relay, part # RM-88400. The purpose of a brake light relay kit is to prevent your towed car's brake signal from overriding the turn signal that comes from your RV. When your towed vehicle is properly wired and connected to your RV, its indicator lights will illuminate as you engage the turn signals in your RV. However, if you have only a four-diode system in place, the turn signal will be overridden by your towed car's brake signal as soon... view full answer...
The tow bar does not need to be attached to the motorhome/toad in order for the lights to work, just the wiring harness. In order to see if the trailer connector is bad on the motorhome you will need a circuit tester. Once you obtain the circuit tester you will then want to test the running light pin on the motorhome's 7-way. If no power is present when the circuit is active then you will want to test the wire just before the trailer connector and see if it has power. If you have power... view full answer...
Let's do some troubleshooting. First, let's check the 7-way trailer connector on your truck using a circuit tester like # PTW2993. We will check each pin for function one by one. I've attached a photo to assist. If your 7-way is not functioning correctly on that left side brake and signal, then you will need to follow that wire, testing it every few feet until you find the short and replace the wire as needed.
To test your camper, you can simply connect that left brake and turn signal... view full answer...
Sorry to hear about your frustrations! A 1999 Ford E-450 shouldn't have a problem having a brake controller tapped into the the stoplight circuit but we do have a solution that can allow you to bypass that and give you a 100 percent safe brake signal. For that you'd want the part # RM-751000. Once installed you'd have a brake pedal switch that powers directly from the vehicle battery which would be the missing link to getting your brake controller installed. view full answer...
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